A rain squall over Martinique - this seems to happen every time we go there.
After a couple of nights in Grande Anse d'Arlet where we enjoyed some great snorkelling and Peter discovered the delights of paddle boarding we headed on to St Pierre - the town that used to be described as The Paris of the Caribbean until it was all but obliterated by the eruption of Mt Pelee in 1902. As mentioned in a previous blog, of the population of 30,000 only two survived the eruption (although 1000 evacuated when they felt the first tremors). Little is known about about the cobbler who allegedly survived in his basement, the history of the prisoner in the cell awaiting trial is well documented.
The little barrel roofed prison cell is nestled between the theatre and the barracks.
It really is tiny. The prisoner documented how he heard terrible noises and screams, then silence - it seems toxic fumes caused many of the deaths, as well as lumps of rock raining down from the volcano. He describes how he jumped around to escape the fumes, and survived four days and three nights by licking water off the walls of his cell until he was rescued. He later joined the circus where he showed off his extensive burn scars.
The theatre
Before leaving St Pierre we had to pay a visit to Le Reservoir Beach Bar where we had had a surprisingly good meal on our previous visit. It was just as good as last time, but with lots more Rum!
Early on, with Will the owner and Peter.
We left Martinique and returned to Rodney Bay with Steve and Lynne to drop Peter off. A lovely sail in great conditions.
We had planned another walk up to the fort at Pigeon Island, but the weather really was against us. It really did rain - even if we had wanted to leave the boat, we couldn't as the rain literally filled and sank the dinghy.
We did manage to recover the dinghy, but the engine had gone under, the carburettor full of water - and in the rain there was no chance of fixing it.
The next day - the water in the bay is brown with mud and sand that has run off the land, but the dinghy engine has forgiven us and is currently working again.
So - another lesson learnt: when it rains in the Caribbean, it really does rain! Secure your dinghy with much more care, and ensure the water can drain back out!
We are now making our way south through the Windward Isles, and will be revisiting Beautiful Bequia next before heading on to Tobago Quays.
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