The Marquesas part 2, Nuku Hiva

The island of Nuku Hiva is approximately 90 Nm from Tahuata, which meant in order to arrive in daylight, we would have to do an overnight passage.  Despite the forecast, we struggled through the night with light winds, resorting to the engine for much of the trip.  The anchorage at Taiohae is not comfortable, there is almost continual swell and with the conditions alternating frequently  between calm and squalls we never seemed to spend very long facing the swell which makes for an uncomfortable time on the boat.  Nuku Hiva is the second largest island in French Polynesia (after Tahiti) and the Capital of the Marquesas - and there are three small supermarkets, a fruit and veg market. 

It is surprisingly difficult to buy vegetables in the Marquesas, the bi-weekly market opens at 0400 and we had been told to be there early - we felt to be ashore shopping before dawn was a pretty extreme way to buy veg, but when we got there at 0530, the keen shoppers had already left with most of the produce!  We did manage to buy fruit and aubergines, and our early start meant we were also in time to buy some absolutely delicious French bread.  Fresh fish are also sold at the dock, $5 for a kilo of freshly caught yellow fin tuna - too good to refuse!

We were still sailing in company with several other yachts and fortunately had assistance getting our 30kg generator off the boat and ashore where we left it with Nuku Hiva Yacht Services with the intention of picking it up again in a few days.  We had lunch ashore with Hugh and Annie from Vega, and Thom from Fathom - he's a single hander we first met in Panama and had been held up in Nuku Hiva due to a seriously infected cut on his ankle. The climate in the Tropics, coupled with the mud and the bugs mean that  skin infections  are a serious risk, any small scratch, cut or bug bite seems to take ages to heal and can easily become infected. 

Shopping accomplished, we left the muddy rolling anchorage Taiohae and headed along the coast to the west.

 

Looking back along the coast of Nuku Hiva it's hard to imagine how the early explorers ever found anywhere to land!

 

Our anchorage, totally hidden from the sea and wonderfully calm and sheltered.

Many of the bays in the Marquesas go by several names, and our next destination was no exception:  Baie de Taioa, also known as Hakaui Bay or Danial's Bay after the couple who have lived here for the last 60 or so years, and is the site of the ancient Fiefdom of King Te Moana and Queen Vaekehu.  You pay the local family $10 to walk in their land, and follow the ancient Royal Road for a good couple of hours up through the forest.

 

Setting off for the Vaipo Waterfall through the immaculate garden of the local family - the plants lining the trail are all the giant cousins of those you find in a Garden Centre at home, thriving in their natural environment.

The Royal Road - it can be quite hard to find at times, reclaimed by the forest.

 

 First sight of the waterfall - we eventually found our way there, which involved crossing the river four times - in places it was thigh deep, but at least it did temporarily wash the mud off!  Well worth the effort though, it was very impressive as it thundered through the cliffs at the bottom of the valley.

We spent a couple of nights in Hakaui or Daniel's bay then headed round to the north of the island to Baie de Hatihew, apparently a favourite of the author Robert Louis Stevenson who visited in 1888.  Hatihew is one of the main archeological sites in the Marquesas as the area was densely occupied in the past and there are foundations and ruins dating back to the year 1250 - the site was occupied until the 1800's when it was abandoned as the population was decimated by European diseases amongst other things.

 

 Hatihew Bay, Nautilus on the left, next to Vega with Hugh and Annie.  We were later joined by Kim and Barry on Jadean - their 8 yr old daughter acted as Water Taxi for us and ferried us ashore as the rough concrete fishing jetty was not really suitable for leaving  a small dinghy unattended.

 

There are ancient Tiki carvings along the shore, all have huge eyes and rather grumpy expressions.

 

 

Another Tiki standing guard outside the immaculately maintained Catholic Church, evidence of ongoing influence of the early Missionaries on the islands.

 

 The view from the Church.  On  top of one of the cliffs in the distance there is a statue of the Virgin Mary, erected in 1872 and somehow carried 300 metres up the cliffs!

 

 A short walk inland takes us to the first of the Tohua, the site of open air gatherings. 

 

More Tiki - this time the male in the middle appears to be holding a female up by the hair with his right hand, whilst holding onto another female with his left hand.  Not obvious from the photo, but there are several others they are sitting on.

We continued on up hill a short way and arrived at the main site where there were further Tohua (for gatherings) and also many Paepae, the foundations of the old houses.  The site was well maintained and there were a couple of reconstructed dwellings.

 

We are standing at the foot of an absolutely massive Banyan tree at the site - apparently it is over 600 years old so was at the centre of things when the site was fully occupied by the early Marquesans.

 

The raised section of the paepae foundation is the habitation area called a ha'e, the roof is made from halved palm tree leaves and held up by wooden carved Tiki supports.

 

A final view of the whole Baie de Hatihew, the statue of the Virgin Mary is on the furthest left of the pinacles of rock - certainly not an easy place to effect a large stone carving!

Our time in the Marquesas was at an end, we spent a total of 18 days in the island group, stopping briefly at Ua Pou Island on our way to the Tuamotos.  I think it rained at some stage on every one of those days! We first had to collect our portable generator from the Yacht Services in Taiohae bay - another night in the rolly anchorage, the Generator had not even been looked at in our absence, however it was an opportunity to buy some delicious French Bread, Camembert and other supplies from the local shops.

The islands are beautiful with incredibly dramatic scenery, and sailing round them we saw more dolphins than we have encountered anywhere else so far.  At times we had them with us for hours, playing in our bow wave and leaping out of the water.

 

They really are a joy to watch!

We set off from the Marquesas with several other yachts and we plan to tour the Tuamotos together, although Vega has temporarily left the group to take a faster route to Tahiti where we plan to re join them. 

Next stop:  Raroira, our first Atoll in the Tuamotos, 435 miles away.

 

The Marquesas Islands, Fatu Hiva, Hiva O'a and Tahuata

As a first port of call in the Marquesas, I don't think there could be anywhere more dramatic than The Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva.  The coastline of Fatu Hiva looks totally imprenetrable,with incredibly steep mountains that rise straight out of the sea. Suddenly an opening reveals itself - the Bay of Virgins, with a tiny little fishing boat harbour surrounded by incredibly lush vegetation.  Anchoring is a challenge, the wind literally howls down the valleys and the bay is deep, the land falls away in much the same way under water as it does above.

 

Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

 

Apparently the bay was originally called the 'Bay des Verges' (Bay of Phalli) but then Missionaries arrived and disapproved - and changed the name to 'Bay des Vierges' (Bay of Virgins) - what a difference an 'i' makes! The rock pinacles that give the Bay of Virgins its name are frequently shrouded in clouds, and goats can be seen roaming around on the precarious rock ledges. 

 

 

We walked through the tiny village to the top of the hill overlooking the bay - there was a fantastic view along the coast and down to the port, Nautilus is anchored as close to the shore as we could get on the left of the photo.  We spent a couple of days in Fatu Hiva enjoying some walks, nice to stretch our legs  after all the time on the boat - the vegetation is very lush due to all the rain and of course there are plenty of waterfalls to be visited.  Unfortunately for us, there are no Customs and Immigrations officials on this island, so after a few days in this little idyl we set sail again for Hiva O'a,  just under 50 miles away, which is the Administrative Centre of the islands.

The main port of Atuona, Hiva O'a was not such a joy - there is a small breakwater, but the anchorage was crowded and we had to anchor outside shelter of the breakwater in continual and very irritating swell.  Not only did it rain the whole time we were there, but despite being very accustomed to living on a rocking boat, this took it to a new level - getting on and off the boat was a challenge,  staying on the boat was almost intolerable.

 

 

Nautilus in the middle of the photo, rocking around with the other yachts outside the breakwater in Hiva O'a

Once ashore, it was a 45 minute walk to the town of Atuona - we checked in at the Gendarmerie, after all the fuss getting the correct exit papers from the Galapagos, they didn't even look at them.  The French Polynesian officials were only interested in our passports and boat registration / ownership papers. There was a decent supermarket in Atuna, and after the Pacific stocks were low - very fortunately for us, we met up with friends Terry and Jean on Little Dove who had rented a car so took our shopping back to the port for us, and then Hugh and Annie from Vega took our shopping back to their boat for us to collect later.  We went out for a delicious pizza together that evening, very un-Marquesan!

 

Heading back to the PortaBote on the slipway - the muddy stream colouring the water brown.  All the bits of wood and coconuts are washed down the rivers and end up in the port,where they then get deposited by the tide so the locals have to clear the slipway regularly and burn the wood (between cloudbursts!)

The Marquesas are famous for their Tiki carvings,  traditionally either carved in wood or stone, these can be seen all over the islands - we visited the craft centre in Atuona where there were an excellent collection of modern Tiki.

 

In the Marquesas we were told the Tiki  alledegly provide protection, in Maori mythology Tiki is the first man created by their Gods and in the Polynesian culture represent deified ancestors and often mark the boundaries of sacred or significant sites.  They are always in humanoid form.

 

We bought this Tiki  and attached him to our mast step in the boat where we hope he will offer us protection.

Two days rolling around in the anchorage of Hiva O'a was enough, the shopping was done and we'd had enough of the rain - the sun came out as we left.  

We headed north to Tahuata Island, this one really was a paradise - a calm anchorage with half a dozen yachts anchored, the sun was out, and it was beautiful.

 

Our first day was spent on the maintenance we had not been able to do in either the rain or a rolly anchorage - during the Pacific crossing the sun-strip along the leach of the genoa had partially detached and had to be sewn back on, and several seams on the sprayhood needed re-sewing.  The trusty Sailrite machine was back in use.   Unfortunately at this stage our portable generator ceased functioning, I went ashore with Hugh and Annie while Ian fraught with the machine but apart from diagnosing a fuel issue, he was unable to get it started so our stay in Tahuata would be brief - we knew there were some Yacht Services on the island of Nuku Hiva.

 

Hugh and Annie from Vega chauffeuring me ashore in their rib.

 

The stunning bay in Tahuata - Nautilus on the left of the photo.

 

 

Hugh and Annie walking along the wonderful beach in Tahuata

While in Tahuata we also were fortunate enough to fit in a dive with Barry from Jadean, the South African Catamaran we have been sailing with since the Galapagos.  The dive was one of the most beautiful we have done to date - the visibility was excellent, there were hundreds of colourful surgeon fish, moorish idol, butterfly fish and countless others as well as a wonderful underwater garden of mushroom coral.  We finished our dive being circled by a hammerhead shark when we did our 3 minute safety stop, and as we were preparing to get out of the water a large manta ray came to check us out.  Thank you Barry, for finding the location, taking us there, and refilling our tanks afterwards!  Sadly no photos - we didn't take the GoPro.

We spent a couple of days in the paradise of Tahuata, then headed for the main island of the Marquesas, Nuku Hiva where we hoped to be able to find someone to fix the portable generator.  It is much safer to arrive at any of the anchorages during daylight as the charts are not 100% accurate and the hazards very unforgiving, the island is about 90 Nm away, too far to reliably cover during a 12 hour day so we set off for Nuku Hiva as dusk fell for an overnight sail, dropping anchor in Taiohae, Nuku Hiva at mid day.

Crossing the Pacific

We set off from Isabela, Galapagos, on 19th April on our longest passage to date:  3000 nautical miles (3,500 land miles) across the Pacific to the Marquesas Islands, our first landfall in the South Pacific.

Provisioning was fairly basic in Isabela but we were well stocked up with dried food and cans from Panama, it's hard to decide what to buy, we have very limited fridge space, no freezer and any supplies we have must be securely stored so that they will stay where they are and also be accessible on passage.  Apart from the tins, the food is stored in plastic boxes - we have as many watertight 4litre boxes as we can fit tucked away under the bilges and behind the saloon seats - the boxes serve two purposes:  firstly they keep the endless bugs out of the dried food, (or if they are already in the produce, which is unfortunately not that uncommon, they only contaminate one box) and secondly to protect against the very high levels of humidity in the Caribbean and Pacific..  We have two fishing lines, and were hoping to add variety to our diet with some fresh fish caught en route.

We knew from the forecast that the wind was initially expected to be light and had decided to use the engine to clear the island before reaching the open ocean, after that we would have to manage under sail as we only carry enough fuel to motor for a few days and would obviously be conserving that for emergencies.  We settled into our first night of the passage - So far so good, until changeover when it became apparent that there was no water in our water tank - all 420 litres were in the bilges, where we not only store food, clothes and various spares, but they also house many of our electrical systems and connections.  It turned out a water pipe had split, unfortunately the bilge alarm had been inadvertently switched to silent and neither of us heard the water pump over the noise of the engine.  Not a great start!  Several hours later we were dried out, had we not had a water maker on board we would certainly have turned back at that stage because although we have emergency bottled water on board it would only just  cover drinking needs on a long trip.  

Fortunately by the time we cleared the island the wind was as forecast and we made good progress which enabled us to run a hydrogenerator and power the watermaker, which produces 50 litres per hour.  All our food supplies survived in their plastic boxes, but one container of UHT milk leaked, as did a container of washing up liquid - quite a mess!

The first week at sea passed in a blur - we were making fantastic progress, our best day we covered 175 Nm - our personal best - we had it easy with the boat almost sailing herself with a reeked mainsail and genoa. Fish were throwing themselves on our lines, fresh Mahi Mahi for dinner every night.  By the end of the second week  we had lost the wind, the boat was constantly rolling uncomfortably, sails were flapping and we had our slowest day when we covered only 98 Nm, even the fish were avoiding us.  

Light wind sailing, mid Pacific, flying our larger asymmetric, 'The Wasp'

We settled into a routine - we were heading directly down wind so over night we poled out the headsail to try to reduce the flapping in the light winds, as soon as there was a hint of dawn the kettle went on for tea, and we changed sail for the asymmetric which increases our speed by at least 1kt and hugely reduces the rolling of the boat but does have to be watched as it is quite prone to wrapping itself around the rigging in the light winds or squalls which is why we don't sail with it at night.  

After the hull damage and repair that was carried out in Panama, the Ovni Agent in the UK, Stephen Johnson from North Sea Maritime contacted us as he was concerned that if the repair failed in any way we should take steps to remove any water that was entering the aft bulkhead which fortunately is a sealed watertight compartment.  It was on about the 10th day at sea when the wind was particularly light and we were sailing very slowly that we became aware of a sort of rumbling noise as we rolled on the swell. It was time to check the bulkhead - Ian drilled a hole through the fuel locker in the transom and sure enough, as we rocked water splashed out.  We ended up using the oil change vacuum pump and removed approximately 100 litres of water from the back of the boat.

Using the vacuum pump to remove water from the 'watertight' bulkhead mid Pacific

We continued our way across the Pacific, using the Sat Phone to get weather updates which always seemed to promise more wind than the reality, and also staying in touch with the rest of the world which became a daily highlight.  We emailed updates to our daughter Clare, who in turn  forwarded them to various friends, and also we were in touch with our own little group crossing the Pacific within a couple of hundred miles of our position.  It was wonderful to be in touch and receive emails and messages when we really did feel rather alone on the ocean and a very long way from everything.

Day 16 - Ian's birthday, 1000 Nm to go, and the first birthday for at least 40 years when he has not had a beer!  By now our routine was very well established:  sail change at dawn, fishing lines out, run watermaker if required, check emails etc, lunch, check sails, check boat, bring fishing lines in at dusk, sail change to conservative night mode as it got dark, dinner and Steph went to bed.  Ian took first watch, we were using a 5 hour watch to give longer sleep periods - change over at 0100, Ian to bed and Steph on watch till dawn - get the kettle on and start again.

Just another day at sea

Head sail poled out, ready for another night at sea

We set off with a waning moon, which gave very little light and the stars were spectacular.  By the end of the trip we had a full moon - the stars were less significant, but the moon itself was so vast and bright that it almost felt like daylight.  The one night we were tempted to keep an asymmetric up caution and good sense prevailed and we dropped it just before a particularly short sharp squall hit us - even with the moon light they are not easy to spot at night and as we know from past experience, they rip sails!

One mystery which remained unresolved was how squid ended up on the deck - flying fish we could understand, we even had one fly in through an open window and land on the floor by the chart table, but during the course of the passage we must have had a good dozen squid on board - we never saw them land, but unless you remove them quite rapidly they leave an inky stain on the deck.  We even found one on top of the coach roof, a good 1.5 metres above sea level.

Flying Squid?

Finally, on our 24th day at sea, land was in sight - we had reached Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, after sailing 3114 Nm. We ran the engine for a total of 23 hours during the crossing, apart from the day we set off we motored when we changed sails as it held the boat more stable. The time did seem to pass quite quickly, and although we both enjoyed the crossing and felt a huge sense of achievement I think I can safely say neither of us wanted to turn round and head back out to sea!    The only fresh food we had left on board was some pumpkin and two onions, we wanted to set foot on land and walk further than 10 metres on a surface that was not moving, and be able to sleep for more than a 5 hour period at night.

 

Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands.  We have crossed the Pacific.

Isabela, the last Galapagos Island we visited

Isabela is the largest of the Galápagos Islands, but the least developed in terms of tourism.  Until recently the island had a population of about 600 locals who were very happy fishing and hunting for a living, a local Guide told us that the inhabitants had voted and repeatedly rejected the idea of opening up to tourism.  All changed about 12 years ago - by 2004 the fishermen had over exploited the stocks of lobster and sea cucumber so the local economy was collapsing, and in 2005 the Sierra Negra Volcano erupted.  Scientists came over via Santa Cruz to investigate and needed somewhere to stay, and then tourists wanted to see the volcano, but they wanted to see more than just a (temporarily) inactive volcano and by 2010 the National Parks Authority opened up a couple of other visitor sights on the island.  The island population is now 2200, and although there are hostels and a couple of hotels, the island remains very unspoilt.

 

A Marine Iguana on the beach at Puerto Villamil, the only port on the island.  We are anchored in the bay, but prohibited from even snorkelling unless accompanied by an official Guide.  They are doing all they can to combine visitors and conservation.

 

The Sea Lions make themselves at home, but their population is kept down here by sharks and whales.

 

The Dual Carriageway from the port to the town of Villamil.  After about half a mile it turns into single carriage way of hard packed sand!

One of the few things you can do without a guide is rent a bicycle and cycle about 5 miles along the coast past some absolutely stunning beaches where you are allowed to swim.  We cycled to the end of the track and then walked to the Wall of Tears, the only remaining evidence of a Penal Colony that existed here between 1946 and 1959.

 

The Wall of Tears.  The prisoners were forced to build the Prison with their bare hands using the very sharp lava rocks and once it was completed they had to build this totally pointless wall, which is 190m long, 9m high and 6m wide.  Many prisoners died during the construction.

 

The footpath continues beyond the Wall of Tears to a lookout point with a stunning view along the coast.  There used to be an American Radar station here during WW II.

 

 

We headed back to town, stopping at the various approved points of interest on the way back.  Nothing really compares to finding a Giant Tortoise wandering along the footpath with you!

 

Our route back to town took us past a Lava Tunnel that extends into the sea.  Part of the roof has collapsed, and you can climb inside this tunnel.

 

Inside the Lava Tunnel - you could hear the sea crashing into the far end, which was a little disconcerting.  There were also a few fish swimming around my feet.

 

Our next stop was a Marine Iguana Conservation site - it seemed to be very successful, there were Iguanas everywhere!

 

In order to see more of the island we decided to go on an organised snorkelling trip to some partially submerged lava tunnels - at $110 per head, it was an expensive trip, but it really did exceed expectations.  It involved a 45 minute high speed boat trip during which we saw several very large manta rays - their wing span was between 4 and 5 metres, they were coming up to the surface and exposing the tips of their wings as well as swimming upside down, showing their white bellies.

 

We arrived at the tunnels, which were expressive in themselves - you could snorkel through them.

 

And there were literally dozens of White Tipped Reef Sharks down there - fortunately they are nocturnal, so were not particularly interested in us.

The final part of our trip was on land, where we were lucky enough to watch Blue Footed Boobies dance - their mating ritual.  One or two eggs are laid directly on the rocks, incubated for 28 to 30 days, and then the chicks are fed by the parents for about 6 months - a strong and trustworthy mate is essential!

 

The dance begins ...

 

She comes over to have a closer look

 

He offers her a twig

 

And he bows - this can continue for a long time, other males come over and strut their stuff - and eventually the female makes her choice of partner.

The next highlight of our trip to Isabela was a hike to the Sierra Negra Volcano - we went with Hugh and Annie from the Yacht Vega.  The trip started in an open sided bus that took us to the start of the trail.  8km later we reached the lip of the caldera, we were told that it was the second largest caldera in the world (after Yellowstone National Park, USA) although even our Guide was a little sceptical ...

 

The Sierra Negra Caldera - Approximately 10km in diameter and filled with black lava it is very dramatic, but we did not find any other evidence to support the local claim about it's size status.  We walked round the rim and on to Volcano Chico through some very wild and inhospitable terrain.

 

A big contrast to the green slopes of the Sierra Negra - the view over the West coast of Isabela from Volcan Chico

 

A few cacti manage to survive here

 

A small lava tube on the way to Volcan Chico

 

After a short rest at the top of the volcano we headed back to the start of the trek, where instead of a ride in an open sided bus we had a lift in the back of a pick up truck!

 

We couldn't resist going for a final dive in the Galapagos, so we went on a trip out to Tortuga Island, a couple of miles off the coast of Isabela.

It was wonderful - more hammerheads than you could count - this one was about 3m long.

Our trip to Galápagos is nearly at an end now, and we have thoroughly enjoyed it.  Contrary to Cruiser's Rumour, a visit does not have to cost a fortune, there are an abundance of expensive trips but there are also plenty of sites that can be visited at minimal cost.  Our Agent, Jonny Romero provided us with an excellent service - including sending 5 officials on a 2 hour ferry trip from Santa Cruz Island to Isabela in order to complete our exit paperwork and stamp our passports.  Although the insistence on being accompanied by a Local Guide can initially seem a  little un-necessary, it does mean that the islands are preserved as much as possible from the impact of humans - you are totally prohibited from touching any wildlife or going anywhere other than approved footpaths ... even on a volcano!

 

Isabela Island - where you can watch hundreds of pelicans and boobies diving for fish, sea lions playing in the surf and drink an excellent Mojito.  This beach is also one of the few where you can swim and surf with out a Local Guide.