Across the sea to Italy - Sardinia

The 190 mile crossing from Fornells, Menorca to Sardinia was spectacular - lots of spinnaker sailing, some motoring during the hours of darkness when the wind dropped off completely, and the sea to ourselves as far as the eye could see.  The real excitement was the wildlife: The sea was vey calm and we saw 4 whales - the huge kind, presumably pilot whales which reach about 8m.  You could hear them coming up for air for miles!  We also saw a turtle, it swam round the back of the boat, and at least 60 dolphins

A Dolphin Performance

As the wind died in the evening the temperature on board reached about 40 degrees and it was time to brave the wildlife and go for a swim in the very deep, very blue sea.

                                                 Guess who?

It was a very relaxing crossing - the sea was so flat we could sail in very little wind, which was just as well as I'm not sure that he is concentrating very hard!

                                     On watch - apparently

After two days at sea we arrived in Alghero, Sardinia to await Clare and Jamie, our visitors for the week

                                    Just outside Alghero - and yes, this really is the sea!

The harbour consists of about 6 separate 'marinas', which are really only individual pontoons - as you arrive you are met by a selection of RIB's, with the different 'marina' personnel touting for your business - it did mean we could barter on the price which is handy as the are ridiculously expensive for a bit of pontoon and a shower in a shed!

The old walled city, full of charm

The old town, cobbled streets.

The old city defences

Not managing to keep the cruise ships at bay!

Not sure what the American Cruise Passengers would have made of the Cat Sanctuary next to the port!

There are clearly no rules at all regarding where you can have a restaurant!

There were more ice cream shops than Starbucks in New York, and also some impressive sweet shops as well as the usual leather sandals, cheap jewellery and beach wear.

After our brush with civilisation and spending two nights in a marina we set off for Capo Caccia across the bay.

King Kong went up the mast to find the perfect anchorage.

I think he found it: Capo Caccia anchorage.

Out with the kayak and into the caves.

Clare looking slightly nervous - it really was dark in there, and full of bugs

Caught on camera - I really don't think she likes it in there!

We spent a couple of days in Capo Caccia then set off North, rounding the tip of Sardinia and heading for Stintino, another very cute little town.  It would be unfair to say the trip was without incident:  Nautilus has a lifting keel and rudder, when they are both lifted we draw 60cm, however you are meant to use the hydraulic pump not the bottom of the sea for this activity!!  The sacrificial washer was sacrificed.  Personally I felt the system worked well - I considered it to be excellent training - himself was rather less enthusiastic about my training strategy!

Anyway - no harm done, we're still speaking, and here we are at anchor in Stintino

 The inner harbour - complete with art -  don't think we'd fit in this one, but there is also a marina where we can get water

Competitive rowing?

All the excitement clearly tires you out - pre dinner nap for the boys.

So the plan is to spend another day here, then head back to Alghero where Clare and Jamie will leave us.  We will then make our way to Olbia, for our next rendezvous, this time Nick and Debbie will be joining us for some Italian sunshine.

Menorca - we could spend a lot longer here!

Whilst enjoying the tranquility of our (nudist) bay in Mallorca, a French couple on a yacht told us that our lives would be incomplete if we did not visit Ciutadella, Menorca.  30 gentle miles later we arrived at the entrance to the little creek that conceals Ciutadella.

                   Traditional Menorcan fishing dinghies,and loads of restaurants

We anchored up, and set off in the trusty dinghy (thanks, Pete Fletcher, your engine is still going strong) and this is what we found.

                                                  On the way up to the Town Centre

                                                   Town Hall and Tourist Office

                       LOTS of opportunities to buy shoes, as long as you like this type!

A fantastic market - fish and meat every day, but fruit and veg are only available once a week - and not while we were there.  So much for the healthy mediterranean diet!

                                                    Fish caught by Vicenta's Boat

                                                             The Meat Market

                                           The Fish Market - Established 1895

We spent a lovely few days in Ciutadella, enjoying wondering round the old town and even had a meal out in the port.  Naturally the sunsets were beautiful.

                                        Sunset, as seen from our anchorage, Ciutadella.

Having had our fill of civilisation and culture, we moved round the North of the island to Fornells, the home of Menorca Sailing.

                         The entrance to Fornells Bay - Spain's answer to Beachy Head?

                                        The view from inside the bay, looking out.

And the view from the land, looking down the bay.  The harbour is hiding there, on the right but we're anchored in the bay, far left.

                                  And our big brother is looking after us (Ovni 495)

This is really cute, in a VERY touristy way - the water is so clear you can hardly see it, and the traditional fishing boats are immaculate. We have just been politely requested to move over, as there is a major Fishing Boat Admiration Event going on this weekend - they're like classic car enthusiasts!

                          These are the regulars, The Event hadn't started yet.

                        Water Grooming (no sand here to rake, so they catch jellyfish instead)

        Of course the British left their mark - evidence of one of their three take over bids!

No Spanish port (or maybe even Spanish town) is complete with out Art:

                                                                Beach Art

                                                                Chair Art

                                   Not many Nudists here, so they make do with chairs!

                                                 Another town, another sunset

  So, where to next?

Actually, the decision has been made - we are heading to Alghero, Sardinia to meet daughter Clare and Jamie who are coming for a week afloat.

Mallorca - a beautiful island

We left Ibiza bright and early on 23rd June in light winds expecting to use the motor - as we left the wind picked up, we hoisted our spinnaker kept it up for the next 7 hours, 46 miles later and we were on the Western tip of Mallorca.

We spent two nights at our first anchorage - Cala S’Artaxa, Camp de Mar - there was a large hotel that provided the evening entertainment:  Live shows that were a combination of ‘Last Night of the Proms’ and Andrew Lloyd Webber musicals - not what we expected, but very pleasant listening from the cockpit!

Apart from the holiday accommodation round the bay, there were also some very exclusive houses literally perched on the edge of the cliffs - they certainly don’t worry about coastal erosion here, even though the evidence of it is very apparent in places!

Find a cliff - build a house!  The lower foundation is actually falling into the sea, along with part of the cliff face.

We worked our way around the South of the island to Playa es Dols, San Jordi. 

Another holiday spot, but no huge hotels this time.  There was a tiny marina

But it was not for us!!!

We did use the fuel pontoon, the water was 1.5m deep which involved lifting both the keel and the rudder.  We filled our water tank as well, and crept back out to the deeper water in the anchorage. We later felt very smug when a couple of other yachts ran aground trying to get fuel and water after us!

We got the impression that having a mooring buoy here was not prohibitively expensive!

Well, I suppose it is a boat ...

And you could even go on a Submarine Tour for €12

Sunset - San Jordi Anchorage

After a thoroughly enjoyable few days involving lots of swimming and kayaking round the bay we decided to move on and find another anchorage - we went 25 miles South East and ended up in Cala Gran.

Is this Butlins?  We arrived and were immediately surrounded by pedallos, swimmers and snorkellers - not the easiest anchoring conditions we’ve come across!!

One night here was enough - we really were the Goldfish in the Bowl

The next morning was Saturday and we were treated to the astonishing spectacle of a Fishing Boat race - at least that’s what we assumed it was.  There was a 10 minute gun, then lots of jostling on the line, a double gun shot and they were off - full speed ahead they fanned out into the great blue yonder! A bit of a relief really, as we were wondering if it was a port blocade!

Approximately 30 boats took part in this event

We passed some of the more laid back contestants, peacefully fishing along the beautiful Mallorcan coastline.

Our final stop in Mallorca was on the Eastern tip - another stunningly beautiful bay, Cala Guya.  This one was clearly a major holiday destination for German Tourists - again we were surrounded by pedallos filled to overflowing with German Youths - all very friendly, but not quite what we had in mind so we moved to the far side of the bay where it was much more peaceful.  

More of those ferocious rocks, but they do make beautiful caves

So it wouldn’t be fair to leave Mallorca without mentioning one more thing - nudists.  Apart from the ‘Butlins Bay’, where the people were way too British for such things, the men take every opportunity to go naked:  Naked sailing, swimming, walking along the beaches or just sunbathing.  Very few women seem to feel the need to do this, clearly a Man Thing.  There were also a significant number of men who jump in the sea, (obviously naked), climb back on board and get out the shower gel for a full scrub down.  Personally (being British) I prefer my shower in salt free water!!  No photos of any of this, obviously.

And on that note - on to Menorca ...