Social Sailing ... Still in Croatia

September has an 'end of season' feel in the Croatian islands.  The crowds have thinned significantly although the charter fleets are still out in force. The sun is still warm, although we've now had several storms and a few cloudy days and the sea is still at least 24 C.  It's a great place.

Nick and Sally are joining us for 10 days, so after a week of taking it easy in the Pakleni Islands off Hvar we headed back to Split to collect them, this time we just tied up on the town quay - no water or electricity, but no charges either.

Nick adopts the role of Tour Guide, Split town quay.

We head for the Old Town, where Sally checks the quality of the Ice Cream as fortification before embarking on Nick's Cultural Tour of the sights.

First stop: the huge bronze statue of Gregorius of Nin - a 10th Century Croatian Bishop - you rub his toe for good luck.

And on to the old Palace, now occupied by Restaurants, Cafes and Tourist Tat

The skyline is dominated by the Belfry -  originally built between the 12th and 16th centuries, but rebuilt in 1908 after it collapsed.  For the sum of 5 kuna (60p) you could climb to the top.

The Belfry - built from stone quarried in Brac, the island a few miles away from Split. The Americans like it so much they imported the very same stone to build The White House.

It was a long way up

The Bells

And eventually we reach the top

The view over the Ferry terminal, Brac island on the left, Solta island on the right

The ACI Marina and Town Quay in the distance, looking over the old town roofs

Split has a fantastic market 

One of the many vegetable stalls

And then the fish

The fridge stocked, we headed off to the Islands

Keeping watch

Easy helming

Our Tour Guide stated we had to stop at Zlatni Rat, on Brac.  It is described as 'A famous beach' and features on all Croatian tourist maps.

It was crowded (publicity is working), and as a beach, Bexhill would give it a run for its money (when the sun shines)

Our Tour Guide did find us some spectacular caves - first the Green Cave, Ravnic Island off Vis

No photos inside this cave, but this diving boat had a good attempt at running Sprigs over!  We took it in turns to swim into the cave from the yacht.  It certainly was an adrenaline moment!

The next cave was the Blue Cave, Bisevo island, off Vis.  This was much more orderly - there was an entrance fee, and no swimming allowed - but at least the camera made it.

The entrance to the cave - 1.5m high, 2.5m wide, 16m deep and 25m long

The sun's rays pass through an underwater opening in the cave to 'bathe the interior in unearthly blue light' (The Tour Guide speaks!)

It was fantastic

Continuing our circumnavigation of Vis, we moored on a buoy in Komiza bay

Komiza, Vis Island

Our Personal Tour Guide had found us an old Castle and Church on the hill, past the olive grove and vineyard

The view from the Church - Nautilus is one of the yachts in the bay.

We had decided to eat on shore, so took the essentials back to the boat first

Nautilus, in the middle of the bay.

The restaurant - another lovely setting

Scampi - sucking the heads dry - I've conquered my demons!

A nice drop of wine with the meal

After 3 bottles, Nick had met his demons!!!

The challenge was to find the best lunch spot - this secluded bay was possibly our favourite

Gradac Bay, Vis

And in Second Place - Nick's Naked Dive! 

The On Board Catering reached new heights - look out Masterchef, we have a new contestant!!

I may have conquered demons with the scampi, but there was no way I was eating that!  Sally prepares squid.

Post dinner disco - Bruce Springstein 'Dancing in the Dark' at max volume - and not a drop of wine spilt.

It wasn't all drinking and eating

We did do some sailing as well!

After a fun filled 10 days,  it was time to say good bye

Nick and Sally left us in Ubli, Lastovo island where they took a ferry back to Split.

And as for us - we sailed on to Mljet, back to Polace anchorage.  After the weekend we plan to go on to Dubrovnic for a few days and then back to Sicily where we'll meet our last visitors of the season - my sister Rose Anne, and nephew Oscar.  

Croatia - It's just beautiful!

So here we are in Croatia - we've been away for 135 days and sailed over 4000 miles, we could have crossed the Atlantic and half way back ... Another time!

The Croatian Islands are spectacular: crystal clear sea, clear blue skies (with a few notable exceptions) and gentle sailing conditions.

After the ferocious storm the day we arrived, we went on to join the Harrison family in Split - they were chartering a yacht for a week and we tagged along, it was great to follow someone else's lead and have a rest from passage planning.  Thanks, Peter - you did a great job!

We have now visited Brac, Hvar, Vis, Lastovo, Korcula and Mljet.  A picture really does paint one thousand words ...

Split Town - we had dinner there with the Harrisons

ACI Marina, Split - not a lot of spare space! Maybe we should have had bow thrusters, after all.

Rob, Clare and Lily taking it easy 

First stop on the Harrison Tour: Vis island

Not sure why the Police were so interested in us!  Vis Town quay

And on to Lastovo, an anchorage this time - this area is designated a Natural Park, and very unspoilt. It was well hidden, more of an inland sea than a bay.

Lastovo, Mali Lago anchorage

Next stop: Mljet island, Polace anchorage - away from the crowds, another very well sheltered anchorage

Complete with castle ruins

Anyone for a BBQ?

With a musical accompaniment?

Enough Nature for now - we went on to the ACI Marina, Korcula - another study in how to maximise boats per square metre of marina space!

Korcula City Walls

  

The Old Town, most of these streets turned into restaurants at night, mostly called Marco Polo.  Alledgedly he was born here.

And there was also extensive stone carving

And finally - Hvar Island, allegedly one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world - not sure how they are judged, as they've all been beautiful!

Hvar Island.  €50 will get you a shared mooring buoy and you swim your other lines ashore - unless Peter's there to do it for you!

Hvar town square - plenty of room for the sale of Tourist Tat here!

Tat to suit all budgets and tastes!

The old Fishing Boat Harbour, Hvar

The view from the castle - at the top of a hill.  Our mooring clearly visible on the right of the picture, the old harbour on the left.  We parted company with our friends here as they had to return their boat to Split. We went on to the islands opposite where we have now spent just over a week in a delightful anchorage - our longest stay in any one place so far this trip.

Our anchorage - Hvar just visible in the distance, we're using a restaurant buoy, a bargain at dinner for two, for €30!

The snorkelling is fabulous - is this part of the Top 10 Island criteria?  

Who needs the Great Barrier Reef?   Nothing deadly in the water here, visit Croatia instead!

Although, when it rains, it really does rain!!!

But at least you get a good sunset afterwards

And the next excitement - back to Split to pick up our next guests, Nick and Sally Newell