Back to Alghero, and a visit to Bandit Country

The more touristy areas of the Med are well appointed with 'Lookie Lookie' men (and women) who wander the towns and beaches politely trying to sell you sunglasses (the men) and handbags (the women).  They clearly guard their wares very carefully - this raft was carefully packed up and paddles out to the bay where we were anchored.  We must have looked particularly trustworthy, as the owner left it anchored next to us and swum back to the shore - he collected it again the next morning and we saw him setting out his wares on the beach.

Overnight parking

Maybe he can't swim, but this vendor didn't even set his sunglasses out till well after dark!

We saw two small pods of dolphins on our trip back to Alghero - these ones were much more blasé about yachts than the Biscay dolphins as they didn't bother to come over to play.

Clare and Jamie went for a fender ride behind the boat

Our fenders are clearly single person sized!  No fenders were injured during the filming.

Back to Capo Caccia - are you sure that gap is big enough???

This is in the entrance to Alghero Harbour - a lesson for the unwary?

Sadly our visitors had to leave us in Alghero and go back to the real world, but at least the sun was shining in the UK so they could show off their tans!

Sunset, Alghero

The marina charges in high summer in the Med are punishingly high, so we try to spend the absolute minimum time in them - Clare and Jamie left us at 0730, and by lunchtime we had been to the laundrette and the supermarket, done a fuel and water filter change on the boat, refilled with water and fuel and managed to escape the marina before being charged for another day.  We then needed to go sailing for a rest!

Our next excitement was meeting up with Frances and Peter who have also sailed from Eastbourne - Peter left about the same time as us, sailed with a selection of crew to Marseilles where he was joined by his wife Frances.  They have just sailed down the West coast of Corsica, we initially met in a little bay in Sardinia and the next day sailed across to Corsica to a bay that had some resemblance to a NCP car park!

Piccolo, heading for Corsica

Going ashore in Rondinara Anchorage, Corsica.

We went our separate ways the next day, Piccolo heading back north up the East coast of Corsica while we went to check out Bonifacio.  To say that this area is a millionaires' playground would be an understatement - many are clearly Billionaires!  It's as busy as the Solent, and there are some VERY serious yachts in these waters.

Just one of the little ones that came to show us their wash!

Bonifacio itself is spectacular - first you see the edge of the town, literally perched on top of the cliffs

As you continue you come to the narrow, cliff lined harbour.  It is a bit of a leap of faith entering this harbour, hoping that you will be able to turn round and get back out again!

The walled city, and a few of the yachts

The harbour opens up as you get  a little further in, and it gets VERY busy.

A bit more walled city

Leaving Bonifacio

We left the mayhem that is Bonifacio and headed for a small bay nearby, only to find it completely packed - rather than fight for space, we went back to the beautiful and peaceful bay where we'd first met up with Peter. I think we need to revisit Corsica in low season!!!

Nautilus - thanks Peter for the photos.

So - next stop - Olbia, to meet Nick and Debbie 

Across the sea to Italy - Sardinia

The 190 mile crossing from Fornells, Menorca to Sardinia was spectacular - lots of spinnaker sailing, some motoring during the hours of darkness when the wind dropped off completely, and the sea to ourselves as far as the eye could see.  The real excitement was the wildlife: The sea was vey calm and we saw 4 whales - the huge kind, presumably pilot whales which reach about 8m.  You could hear them coming up for air for miles!  We also saw a turtle, it swam round the back of the boat, and at least 60 dolphins

A Dolphin Performance

As the wind died in the evening the temperature on board reached about 40 degrees and it was time to brave the wildlife and go for a swim in the very deep, very blue sea.

                                                 Guess who?

It was a very relaxing crossing - the sea was so flat we could sail in very little wind, which was just as well as I'm not sure that he is concentrating very hard!

                                     On watch - apparently

After two days at sea we arrived in Alghero, Sardinia to await Clare and Jamie, our visitors for the week

                                    Just outside Alghero - and yes, this really is the sea!

The harbour consists of about 6 separate 'marinas', which are really only individual pontoons - as you arrive you are met by a selection of RIB's, with the different 'marina' personnel touting for your business - it did mean we could barter on the price which is handy as the are ridiculously expensive for a bit of pontoon and a shower in a shed!

The old walled city, full of charm

The old town, cobbled streets.

The old city defences

Not managing to keep the cruise ships at bay!

Not sure what the American Cruise Passengers would have made of the Cat Sanctuary next to the port!

There are clearly no rules at all regarding where you can have a restaurant!

There were more ice cream shops than Starbucks in New York, and also some impressive sweet shops as well as the usual leather sandals, cheap jewellery and beach wear.

After our brush with civilisation and spending two nights in a marina we set off for Capo Caccia across the bay.

King Kong went up the mast to find the perfect anchorage.

I think he found it: Capo Caccia anchorage.

Out with the kayak and into the caves.

Clare looking slightly nervous - it really was dark in there, and full of bugs

Caught on camera - I really don't think she likes it in there!

We spent a couple of days in Capo Caccia then set off North, rounding the tip of Sardinia and heading for Stintino, another very cute little town.  It would be unfair to say the trip was without incident:  Nautilus has a lifting keel and rudder, when they are both lifted we draw 60cm, however you are meant to use the hydraulic pump not the bottom of the sea for this activity!!  The sacrificial washer was sacrificed.  Personally I felt the system worked well - I considered it to be excellent training - himself was rather less enthusiastic about my training strategy!

Anyway - no harm done, we're still speaking, and here we are at anchor in Stintino

 The inner harbour - complete with art -  don't think we'd fit in this one, but there is also a marina where we can get water

Competitive rowing?

All the excitement clearly tires you out - pre dinner nap for the boys.

So the plan is to spend another day here, then head back to Alghero where Clare and Jamie will leave us.  We will then make our way to Olbia, for our next rendezvous, this time Nick and Debbie will be joining us for some Italian sunshine.

Menorca - we could spend a lot longer here!

Whilst enjoying the tranquility of our (nudist) bay in Mallorca, a French couple on a yacht told us that our lives would be incomplete if we did not visit Ciutadella, Menorca.  30 gentle miles later we arrived at the entrance to the little creek that conceals Ciutadella.

                   Traditional Menorcan fishing dinghies,and loads of restaurants

We anchored up, and set off in the trusty dinghy (thanks, Pete Fletcher, your engine is still going strong) and this is what we found.

                                                  On the way up to the Town Centre

                                                   Town Hall and Tourist Office

                       LOTS of opportunities to buy shoes, as long as you like this type!

A fantastic market - fish and meat every day, but fruit and veg are only available once a week - and not while we were there.  So much for the healthy mediterranean diet!

                                                    Fish caught by Vicenta's Boat

                                                             The Meat Market

                                           The Fish Market - Established 1895

We spent a lovely few days in Ciutadella, enjoying wondering round the old town and even had a meal out in the port.  Naturally the sunsets were beautiful.

                                        Sunset, as seen from our anchorage, Ciutadella.

Having had our fill of civilisation and culture, we moved round the North of the island to Fornells, the home of Menorca Sailing.

                         The entrance to Fornells Bay - Spain's answer to Beachy Head?

                                        The view from inside the bay, looking out.

And the view from the land, looking down the bay.  The harbour is hiding there, on the right but we're anchored in the bay, far left.

                                  And our big brother is looking after us (Ovni 495)

This is really cute, in a VERY touristy way - the water is so clear you can hardly see it, and the traditional fishing boats are immaculate. We have just been politely requested to move over, as there is a major Fishing Boat Admiration Event going on this weekend - they're like classic car enthusiasts!

                          These are the regulars, The Event hadn't started yet.

                        Water Grooming (no sand here to rake, so they catch jellyfish instead)

        Of course the British left their mark - evidence of one of their three take over bids!

No Spanish port (or maybe even Spanish town) is complete with out Art:

                                                                Beach Art

                                                                Chair Art

                                   Not many Nudists here, so they make do with chairs!

                                                 Another town, another sunset

  So, where to next?

Actually, the decision has been made - we are heading to Alghero, Sardinia to meet daughter Clare and Jamie who are coming for a week afloat.